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Welcome to Part II of our air plant troubleshooting journey, in which we will be addressing factors that contribute to poor Tillandsia health, what we can do to turn things around and, better still, prevent issues from occurring.
Air plants need light for photosynthesis; therefore, full shade should never be an option. Depending on the category under which they fall, Tillandsias need either bright or indirect/filtered light. Xeric species prefer a brighter, and somewhat sunnier, location for part of the day, and mesic species less so. Take these preferences into consideration when determining where to position your air plants for best results. Loss of leaf luster can be symptomatic of insufficient light. Yellowing may be a result of too much light. If you observe either symptom, moving the plant to another location may alleviate matters.
Because air plants bloom once and then gradually die, loss of leaf luster or yellowing can also be indicative of the natural aging process. Nothing can be done for the mother plant; however, a new generation of pups usually appear at the base of the plant as it declines, and so all is not lost.
Over-fertilization can result in burnt leaves. Therefore, erring on the side of too little fertilizer is always preferable to too much. Once burned, affected areas will not recuperate. If the damage does not extend to the entire plant, pruning only the crispy leaves may allow the Tillandsia to regroup and better focus its energy on those leaves that remain.
Although bromeliad or orchid fertilizer is often recommended, most water-soluble fertilizers will work well when properly applied. Many air plants appreciate a quarter-strength misting once a month, while others will thrive with much less frequency. A tip: If your plant needs both hydration and an intake of nutrients, tend to watering needs one day, allowing it to completely dry, and apply fertilizer the next day, sufficiently diluted to meet the needs of the specific Tillandsia species (Sengo 73).
Although there are exceptions, most Tillandsias prefer temperatures in the 50-90 degree range. Temperature extremes are normally a non-issue for indoor plants. However, if left out in colder temperatures air plants will likely respond by becoming squishy or wilted. When too hot, leaves may appear wilted or dry, with browning leaf tips. The best remedy? Practice prevention by protecting outdoor plants from temperature extremes.
If you forget and temperatures dip or rise beyond acceptable levels, move the plant out of harm's way as soon as you remember. If extremes are of short duration, you may be able to remedy the situation. For example, if the plant was subjected to too much heat/sun, dunking in water for a period of time may help revive it. Again, a very short period of excess cold or heat may be survivable; any longer will likely prove fatal.
When Tillandsias become weakened because their basic needs are not satisfied, pests such as mealybugs, visible as white, cotton-looking patches, and other scale insects, often seen as little bumps on the top or underside of leaves, can easily settle in. Once you notice pests, immediately quarantine the plant and, then, take remedial action. Least toxic methods for light infestations include removing by hand using a cotton swab soaked with isopropyl alcohol, or dislodging with a burst of water. Horticultural oils, neem oil or insecticidal soaps can prove useful in combating heavier infestations. When using oils and soaps, or any type of targeted insecticide, apply on the topside, between and the underside of leaves earlier or later in the day, and always follow label directions.
Until next time ... enjoy your air plants!
Janetta Fox is a Lee County Master Gardener volunteer and member of the Garden Club of Cape Coral.
Source:
Sengo, Z. (2014). Air plants. The curious world of tillandsias. Timber Press.